To all the nice people I met.... Xie xie ni!

Ni shi nali ren? Wo shi Indonesia ren - I answered proudly.

They may never see a face like me, questioning eyes I saw from them when I met along the far flung areas I traveled in China. Once I said Indonesia, they seems understand (only god knows if they really do).

Although most of my sentence I said is "Wo bu ming bai" yet I survived. For that I say thank you for those who helped me, showed me the way, protected me, talked to me, gave me discount and be my friend.




The tourism girl in Hanzhou.



Mr. Lee from Lanzhou.



Mr. Lee the guide from Dunhuang - everyone in China named Lee i suppose.



Losan from Xiahe.



Mr and Mrs. Rupiah I met in the train from Xian to Lanzhou, sorry I didn't get their name, but they were thrilled when I gave them Rp 2,000 as a souvenir from Indonesia. Also to Holly and Fatima (yes they are beautiful chinese girls) who spoke to me during the trip from Xian to Lanzhou.



Grace the birthday lady - hopefuly we will meet in Bali sometime.



Mr. Antique, who gave me huge discount only because I can speak a little mandarin.



Jo ann my good friend from Jakarta who now lives in Shanghai.



Malyn, the best host in Manila who showed me the best of Manila in 6 hours.

See you in my other trip(s).

Zai Jian!

A Nation in Between

Vietnam suffers from a never-ending physical and mental war – what started in 2nd century BC that saw it up in arms against Chinese invasion, only to be followed by similar advances from France, Japan and the U.S. – all to create what is now an enduring and strong nation. In entering globalization as the new form of capitalism, Vietnam is now struggling to keep its belief in communism.

Since the mid 1990s, Vietnam has been speeding up its economic growth. The end of the Cold War and the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 marked the beginning of the industrialization era for the country.

During my short trip to Vietnam, I saw clearly the results of a mixed culture and history reflected in the country’s cuisines, architecture, art and culture.



Vietnamese coffee and its tempting scent, Pho and its rich taste, Vietnamese-styled European sandwiches, spring roll wrapped in rice paper and Cha ca (filleted fish slices grilled over charcoal) are just some the must-taste culinary treats in Vietnam.

Hoi An, a charming old town with the influences of Chinese, Japanese and European cultures are well preserved in the local architecture. Strolling down the narrow street of Hoi An with a 10,000 Dong rented bicycle delivered me a flashback to a time 150 years ago – a time filled with Vietnamese ladies wearing silk slim dresses, European ladies with their big ball dress , and peasants offering street food and fresh fruits. Now, shops in little exotic and rich architectures offer custom-made clothing, cafés, souvenirs and paintings are found in almost every corner. Fancy a cooking class? Get to know more about what Vietnam cuisine has to offer simply by visiting the many restaurants in Hoi An.




From the tranquil streets of Hoi An, I then made my way to the busy streets of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, where one has to cope with the hustling hundreds of motorcycles while ignoring them left and right when crossing the streets – otherwise you will go nowhere.



Visiting Vietnam won’t be complete if you don’t take time to enjoy the boat cruise between thousands of limestone isles and karsts in one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites – the Halong Bay. Experiencing the beauty that is Halong Bay, it is almost impossible not to believe Vietnam’s local legend that Heaven sent a family of dragons to help defend the land against Chinese invaders before spitting out jewels and jade that eventually became the limestone isles.




Pretending to be the VC (Viet Cong), I crawled down the 200-km tunnel that saw some parts made wider and taller to accommodate tourists but still not recommended for someone with claustrophobia. If a duck walk in a 40-m underground tunnel may not be enough for one to feel like a VC, one simply has to notice several real guns with real bullets the likes of an M16, M60 and AK47 – just some you don’t want to miss.

Through the perspective of a traveler, one can see that Vietnam is again facing a new colonialism, where materialism has become what matters the most, while social norms are becoming less and less important.

Do you believe in eternal love?

This may not be a question you need to answer. However, I know some of you may have the answer while others do not. But at least Rama and Shinta have their own love epic that I want to share from my trip to Yogyakarta in December 2008.

As the story goes, the Rama and Shinta love epic began from a simple question by Walmiki to his friend Narada about a tale of one the kindest and wisest hero he knew. “Rama the king of Ayodya” he replied. Amazed by the story, Walmiki started to meditate and wrote the story of Ramayana.

The story of love that begins from a man’s desire to fulfill his wife request’s to capture a golden deer. The beast transfigured from Marica, one the followers of Rahwana king of Alengka who adores Shinta. There you can see how materialistic a woman can be. Golden deer oh my dear.

In a bid to fulfill Shinta’s wish, Rama sought the golden deer and left his beloved Shinta alone in the forest. While successfully putting an arrow and targeting it to the golden deer. However, suddenly the deer transfigured back into a giant and the a war between Ayodya and Alengka was inevitable. As Shinta was left alone in the forest, Rahwana managed to kidnap her and brought her to his palace.

Many parties got involved in this war. Jatayu, the giant bird who died while trying to release Shinta from Rahwana. Hanoman, the white monkey managed to release himself after being tied up and burnt alive. He finally succeeds to burn Alengka using the fire from his own body.

Knowing Alengka is ruined and Rahwana’s son Indrajit died, Rama attacked Alengka and finally killed Rahwana with his heirloom arrow. Anyway, Rama is not that mighty after all I guess. Imagine if Hanoman were no there to help Rama.

After the death of Rahwana, Hanoman takes Shinta to meet Rama. But Rama refused her because he thinks that she is not purified anymore. Shinta was disappointed and to prove her being faithful to her husband she went into a fire and burnt herself. Because of her holiness, and God of fire's help Shinta was not burnt and remained safe. That made Rama happy and finally accepted her to be his wife again.

Reading may surely not be enough to know the glory of this love epic. So, better enjoy this epic performed at in Prambanan temple. My advice, see the performance during dry season. Imagine, more than 250 dancers with all their nice Javanese costumes, dancing and performing the love epic and Prambanan temple as the backdrop under the full moon light. If you visit Yogyakarta during the wet season, you still can see the performance in Trimurti in door stage in Prambanan temple complex. Have more serene atmosphere enjoy the puppet show on Ramayana at Sonobudoyo Museum Yogyakarta. As I can share you some of the pictures I took from the puppet show.

As Brahma admires Walmiki works on Ramayana, he said “As long as the mountains stand, as long as the rivers are on the earth, so long will in this world the song of Ramayana continue to live”. I guess so does love.

The Strongest Man - or should I say kid - in Indonesia

You could compare this kid to a small version of the “The Incredible Hulk”; you could compare him to Nanny Mc Phee in short pants, but he is not a comic hero and will not put you under his spell. He is just the trekking guide we hired on our journey to the second highest volcano in Indonesia – Mount Rinjani in Lombok (3,726 m dpl). The only thing that’s stuck in my mind about him is that he’s just the real “Incredible Zumahir.” He carried all of our 20 kg of belongings up the mountain, and is called Togog by his fellow guides.

“How old are you?” I asked.
“Over 18”
“When is your birthday?” I asked again.
“Don’t remember, it’s written in my school report book”
“Do you want to live in the city?” I asked.
“No! I don’t like big cities. I like it here in the mountain, once I visited Mataram and I hated it.”
“Have you ever wanted to go to Jakarta?” I asked with curiosity.
“No! I don’t like big cities!”

No wonder this young man never wanted to leave the mountain. You really arrive at a heaven on earth after four days almost killing track. For those who love nature, mount Rinjani is a wonder you will find here in my lovely Indonesia.

Words are not enough to describe it, so I would just like to share a couple of my pictures from Rinjani.



The Segara Anak Lake and small Rinjani crater from Pelawangan (2,641m dpl).










Segara Anak, the destination of thousand pilgrims who place offerings in the water and wash away diseases in the hot spring.




The Incredible Zumahir, so you know why I was a bit confused about whether to call him a man, a kid or a young man.




Me and my fellow Rinjani trekker.


You can find a lot of information about the wonder of Rinjani on the net. Just a couple of tips from me, don’t forget to bring your sleeping bag and long pants. Happy trekking!!

Road Trip

Idul Fitri holiday as we call it here “Mudik Lebaran” has become more of a culture for Indonesian. My family included. Daddy driving, mommy navigate with her limited sense of direction, sister and me sit at the back. Then we were ready to start our journey from Jakarta to Surabaya. It was years ago, when US$1 equal to Rp 2,500.

The habit continues until finally I could really sit behind the steering wheel. For anyone who calling him/her self love to travel, road trip is a MUST!!

Java island the south of the archipelago. The old Deandels track built on the north side, connecting Anyer and Panarukan. The road similar to rupiah and dollar fluctuation on 1997 lays on the south through the mountains, forests, paddy fields and beaches riches with great surf. Both tracks have their own attractions.

Journey through the north starts with 75 km freeway heading to Cirebon for lunch, a full plate of “Sate khas Cirebon”. Lamb skewer served with chili peanut sauce and rice. Need more spicy on it, just add the chopped green chili and red onion.

The old mosque in Demak with its giant pillars waiting 200 km east, took couple of great pictures here is necessary. Stayed for a night in Semarang where once the world greatest Admiral Cheng He has landed.

Heading east for Nganjuk having “pecel” and “nasi pincuk” for lunch. Visit Caruban, bought water melon and eat it fresh, what would you ask for more.

Before I tell you about the city finale. The south track should reveal.

Ducth inherited tea plantation 60 km south of Jakarta, then heading to Bandung “the parisj van Java”. The next 100 km then reached Tasikmalaya through Nagrek, the village famous with the 45 degrees “tanjakan”.

After had a wondrous sidetracked by finding great beach called “Karang Bolong” located in one of secluded village in Gombong. The journey continues, another 150 km east to Yogyakarta Ngadiningrat. Will need another story only to describe this beautiful city where the ancient javaness culture still rule by the existence of Sultan Yogyakarta. Stay for a night just to have small bite of this city to unwind your soul after 10 hours driving from Jakarta.

Start your journey early in the next morning to have another 10 hours driving to my city finale, Surabaya.

Yet this is not the end of the journey.